Walking Your Dog

Posted on October 4, 2010 by Alpha Male

One of the most common issues when walking a dog on a lead is the pulling the dog does. Sometimes it may feel like your dog is taking you for a walk and you aren’t too far of the truth. It makes for one of the most unenjoyable experiences and often it can cause people to stop walking there dog or limit the number of walks they do. It can lead to great stress in the dog owner and can lead to a feeling of immense frustration. The good news is that people do train there dogs to walk beside them and any dog can be trained to walk properly on the lead.

Scenario

Time to take the dog for a walk.

We get up from our chair perhaps saying to the dog “walk time”, the dog responds by getting up and coming to life. We head to the bedroom putting on a coat or changing into more appropriate clothing for the walk. During this time we may make more eye contact with our dog and talk to it which leads it to bounce around and often this makes us happy because our dog is happy and can’t wait to go for a walk. So we only encourage this more and more cause we want our dogs to be happy. Usually the next thing is we start to head towards the door and if you come down stairs or walk down a hallway you will find your dog runs towards the door before you can even get there. We may at this time tell our dog to slow down or calm down.

As we draw closer to the front door the dog may start to bark and spin around in circles in excitement. At this point we may get our dog to sit, even though it maybe shaking in excitement. We put the lead on our dog and pretty much as soon as the dog hears the click of the lead it stands up and heads straight at the door. It’s about this time that we start to get angrier and our first out-burst maybe here, where we yell at our dog and command it to sit. We open the door and as soon as it opens our dog leaps outside dragging us with them. This makes us even angrier so we pull the dog back to us and attempt to shut the door and maybe we yell out to someone inside that we’re are taking the dog for a walk. We start to head towards the road and all the way our dog is pulling us like a freight train, they may start to sniff a bush then mark it, giving us a little relief before they rocket to the next spot to mark or sniff.

It can be quite embarrassing especially when people start to stare at us and watch as our dog drags us down the street. It’s around this time we may either loose it and yell at our dog or just accept that this is what our dog wants on its walk. Often on the walk we can hear the dog choking on the lead which makes us attempt to reason with the dog by telling it to wait or stop, when all this fails we let out more lead which allows it temporary relief before it charges ahead and continues to choke itself. The only way we stop the choking is by walking at its pace. By the time we get home the dog has slowed down and perhaps it may not be pulling much on the lead. That is till we reach our home. When we approach the door our dog starts to again pull at the lead and drag us to the front door.

We then open the door and our dog charges in and we look exhausted and find the walk is not enjoyable, rather it’s a chore. From here we start to associate walks with negative thoughts and thus we start to become less incline to take our dog for a walk. It seems hopeless and all the tips our relatives and friends give us just don’t work well or only discourage us. So being a proactive person we start to look around for information on how to walk your dog properly. After Googleing “how to stop your dog pulling on a lead” we have found this article. Or maybe you found this other ways – it’s not important. What’s important is that this issue is very common and with some simple tips and consistent training your dog will be walking properly on a lead.

Your Walk begins before you go for a walk:

Dogs learn from being rewarded. The behaviour of our dog is a direct reflection of how we reward our dog for certain behaviours. If your dog jumps around in excitement it’s because you have rewarded this behaviour. A reward can be as simple as talking to your dog, touching your dog or even eye contact. It’s important to know a reward is not just a chocolate drop; it comes in many forms and often is associated with body language. Also, hugely important, is that the training of a dog doesn’t stop. There is no such thing as “training time” and then the rest of the time with your dog. You can teach a dog to sit and stay however once this stops your dog will still be learning – especially how to behave in different situations. Just like how kids don’t stop learning when they come home from school.

Our energy is often another large part of how a dog behaves. If you get up and jump around all excited your dog will mimics this energy. If you get up with no heighten energy, no eye contact with your dog, nothing said, your dog will most likely get up and walk around slowly (especially if your dog follows you around the house everywhere).

How on earth does all this relate to walking your dog properly? Well the walk begins as soon as you get up from your chair. In the scenario above when we got up from our chair to go for a walk we said to our dog “walk time” which alerted our dog to heightened its energy and thus it got excited. Often we have trained our dog to react a certain way to words or body language by accident and its these triggers which cause our dogs to react like nutters sometime.

So first thing, if you are about to go for a walk totally ignore your dog and don’t let on you are even doing anything. Don’t make any eye contact, say nothing and try to keep a well balanced energy. Often it maybe good to visualise a reason you are going for a walk, perhaps rather than taking your dog for a walk your are walking to the local Dairy to grab a bottle of milk and your dog is following you. Remember that when you are going for a walk, you aren’t walking your dog. Rather you are going for a walk and your dog gets to come with you. This is very important because without this going through our head we may do subtle things the dog picks up on which make it think it can lead you on this walk. If your dog is pulling on your lead, it means it’s leading you.

So when your get ready for your walk, totally ignore your dog, give it no triggers to make it heighten its energy. Your dog’s energy should not be heightened, if it is then you need to sit down and restart this over again until your dog doesn’t react to you. There is no point continuing the walk if you leave the house with a dog which has heightened energy.

The front door is usually a place where your dog will have high energy (it’s a trigger) so don’t take your dog to the front door to put the lead on. You should put your lead on the dog away from the door, in another room. When you put the lead on make sure that the dog doesn’t just take off, nor should it get excited. You should be ignoring your dog and simply place the lead on it. The dog should not even notice it has a lead on. If it does get excited when you place the lead on then you should lower the dog’s energy by taking the lead off and sitting back down. Again you should never take a dog with heightened energy for a walk. Putting the lead on is an important part because this is like the front door and often is a high energy trigger. The reason why we make sure that our dog’s energy is low before we move to the next step is because the dog will take this heighten energy onto the next steps and all you will be doing is training your dog to have high energy when you take it for a walk. What we are doing here is training your dog to have low energy at each phase of the walk.

Your next step is to have the dog on the lead next to you. Make sure the lead is short and you must lead your dog to the door. Don’t let your dog rush the door and don’t let it get in front of you. You should have full control of the dog. If you find it’s pulling on the lead or getting uncontrollable you should take it back into the room you came from, lower its energy by making it sit and wait. Once its energy is lower then take it to the door again. Keep repeating this step till you can take the dog to the front door without it pulling or tugging on you.

Make it sit and wait at the door. The next part often will cause your dog to try and leap out the door. This again is a sign that your dog wants to lead the walk or is to excited for a walk. So make sure it is sitting and is calm, if you find your dog is crying you can stop it by using a command sound like “sssssssst”. If you use a word like “stop” or “wait” you may put emotion into it which only punishes a dog as it only hears the sound of the word, they don’t understand the word. Open the door. If the dog leaps out, shut the door and take the dog back into the previous room. Make it sit and wait till its calm. Again take the dog to the door and open it. Sit it there with the open door for about 10 seconds to give it time to get use to the outside smells and environment. You should exit the door and your dog should follow you. Once you are outside make your dog sit and shut the door. Another issue that can happen at this stage is that your dog may follow you however it may jump out the door and try to rush outside. If it does this then repeat walking through the door again until it stops doing this.

Now for the next stage. If you have a fenced property then grab a ball take your dog off the lead and throw the ball around for about 15 or so minutes – until your dog is almost drained of all its energy. Let them have a drink of water and then place the lead back onto your dog. Now your dog is ready to go for a walk. Why do we do this? They will be a lot easier to control since there energy will be low. Why go through all the stuff inside your home to lower your dog’s energy? Because your dog needs to learn leaving your home with a low energy.

Make sure your dog is on a very short lead and keep them beside you. The short lead means you have control of them and they will not choke themselves. Focus on a visualisation like heading towards the dairy and getting your milk. Your dog should be beside you and you must now ignore your dog. If it tries to pull sideways you need to counter this with a short tug back towards you. Don’t drag your dog, the tug should be very short and quick. This unbalances your dog and snaps it out of wanting to sniff the bushes. If you drag a dog you could injure it and possibly yourself. In a short time you should be able to pick up when your dog is about to be wayward and a simple small tug on the lead should correct it.

You need to lead this walk so you need to be confident on your walk, ignore your dog and just head towards your destination. With your dog at a lower energy they should be easier to control and with a short lead they should never get in front of you. If they do start to attempt to pull ahead of you do a quick tug and use the “sssssssssst” command to get them back to your speed. Don’t let your dog take over your walk. One of the most common mistakes is using a lead that is to long and letting your dog get a head of you – then you have no control at all and your dog will do what it wants. Your dog also doesn’t need to sniff every bush on your walk; this is just a territorial behaviour and should be discouraged. If you keep your dog beside you and it doesn’t get away from you within a short time they will get use to this and should make walking a lot more easier.

The next very important part of a walk is when you come home. When you enter your front door your dog must be in a calm state and not excited. If we let them enter the home excited then next time we go for a walk they will carry this excitement with them. So make them sit and make sure you enter your home first. You should take them into the living area behind you in a calm state, take the lead of them and just walk away. Also make sure no one else in the home makes any fuss of the dog as this can lead to your dog thinking it’s the leader of the home. Which is found in another article: Are you the pack leader? Often it’s good to feed a dog after its done some activity as feeding will also cause your dog to go to sleep which is the natural dog cycle: Exercise > Discipline > Food > Sleep.

To make this work well you need to be consistent. You cannot go back to the old way of taking your dog for a walk.

Tips:

?Ignore your dog before you go for a walk

?Only go for a walk when you dog is in a calm state

?If your dog gets excited before a walk don’t take them for a walk till they calm down

?Spend a good 15mins tiring them out with a ball before the walk

?To teach your dog to walk beside you, you need to have a short lead and walk them beside you the whole walk

?Visualise there is a reason you are going for a walk, for instance you are picking up some milk from the dairy and your dog gets to come.

?To control a dog on a lead do not drag your dog, use short tugs and also the “sssssssssst” command

?Keep your energy level low and consistent, never heighten your energy because your dog will only heighten there’s.

?Walk at your pace not your dogs

?Take control of your walk, have a strong assertive posture

?Ignore your dog during your walk, don’t give them to much attention, don’t talk to them

Teddy Spoodle
http://www.spoodle.co.nz

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Is A Premium Dog Food Really That Much Better For Your Dog?

Posted on October 4, 2010 by Alpha Male

==========The Scoop on Premium Dog Food========

If you’re interested in premium dog food, then I probably don’t have to tell you about the importance of diet in keeping your dog active and healthy. You already know you want something better than “average” for your furry friend.

But how much do you really know about what’s in a premium food and what your particular pet’s needs are? I’m no veterinarian but I do know a thing or two about health and nutrition. (As a family dentist who practiced for twenty years, I saw first hand the effects of poor dietary habits on human health — and particularly on human teeth!!).

Like you, your dog has to deal with the effects of stress, age, exertion, a polluted environment, and foods grown in nutrient-depleted soils. Unlike you, he has to get practically all of his nutrition from a single food. Sure, you may give him a few treats or the occasional table scrap (not too many I hope!), but otherwise he’s eating out of the same bag or can day in and day out. You want him to get complete nutrition out of that one food.

===========Complete Nutrition?===============

Even the experts seem to disagree on exactly what complete nutrition is. Maybe this explains why there are so many formulas for premium dog food out there. There’s one thing they do agree on, though: premium dog food is better for your pet than economy and grocery store brands. Although you’ll pay more, it usually holds true that you get what you pay for.

Experts also agree that, because premium foods are more nutritionally dense and easier to digest, your dog won’t need to eat as much. One study even concluded that if you fed your dog the recommended amounts on each package, you’d end up saving money on the premium formulas. That’s because your dog needs to eat a lot less of it. (You’ll save on pooper scoopers too!)

Another way to know if your dog is getting a proper diet is simply to observe him. Are his eyes bright, his coat silky and shiny, and his skin free from dryness and itching? Is he at a healthy weight? How about his energy level? This may vary from one animal to another, but as you get to know yours, you’ll know when your dog isn’t feeling up to par.

Of course, any persistent health problems should be looked into by your vet, and the same goes for any special dietary needs. But in general you’ll know if your friend is doing well on the diet you’re feeding him. If you see signs that he isn’t, try a different formula or another brand of premium dog food.

Introduce new foods gradually, especially if you have a picky eater. And while we’re on that subject, it’s always nice if your dog enjoys eating his food. This has a lot less to do with taste than it does with smell. Dogs have fewer taste buds than we do, but about 40 times as many scent receptors. So make sure he eats with gusto, and doesn’t just pick at his food.
Here are some basic guidelines you can follow:

============Essential Nutrients=============

Every dog needs the right amounts of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals, and water. Your dog must have all these in correct proportions to stay healthy. Needs vary with life stage, breed and activity level. Dog food companies make premium dog food for all life stages, from puppy to senior. An average adult dog needs a daily intake of about five ounces for every ten pounds of weight, with essential nutrients in the following proportions:

Protein –23% of total intake

Fats –5% of total intake

Carbohydrates –65% of total intake

Additional vitamins and minerals your dog needs are: Vitamins A, D, E, B-complex, Niacin, Biotin, Folic Acid, Choline, and Pantothenic Acid; Calcium, Phosphorus, Potassium, Sodium Chloride, Magnesium, Iron, Copper, Manganese, Zinc, Iodine, and Selenium.

It’s generally agreed that dogs do better on a protein source that’s primarily meat rather than soybeans and grains. Check the label. All US food labels must list ingredients in order of their quantity. If meat by-products are listed, they should come after the real meat, not before it. Meat by products are an inferior source of protein, and are basically what remains after the good quality meat has been removed. “Crude protein” can be a similarly poor source, since it may include parts of the animal that can’t even be digested or absorbed by the average dog (hair, beaks, etc.).

Omega fatty acids are a hot topic in human nutrition these days, and have been found to be just as important in the canine diet. Both should be present, and in the right ratio. Most premium dog food companies have done the research on this and adjusted the ratios, but as usual, ask your vet if your uncertain.

===========Wet vs. Dry============

You can buy premium dog food in just about any form, but which one is best? Again, most experts seem to agree. Dry food is less likely to allow plaque to accumulate on the teeth, less likely to harbor bacteria if left out too long, and results in firmer, more compact stools. Semi-moist foods are convenient but for some reason (I’m not sure what) don’t offer the same nutritional benefits as premium kibble or canned foods.

That said, I have also heard arguments suggesting that a diet of exclusively dry food can be a strain on a dog’s kidneys. So, to be on the safe side, check with your vet.

===========Life Stages============

Puppies need more calories and essential nutrients than adult dogs. They need up to twice as many calories per ounce of body weight and should get 25% to 30% of their energy from protein depending on the breed.

Most premium dog food brands take this into account in their puppy formulas, but it doesn’t hurt to check the label. By six to eight weeks of age a puppy should be fully weaned and eating his dry food consistently. After that, different breeds reach their mature weight at different rates, by anywhere from 9 months to 24 months old. So it’s hard to give an age or weight by which you should take your pet off puppy food. Again, your vet can help out here.

Also, remember not to try to “rush” the growing process by overfeeding. If she grows too fast, a dog can develop bone growth diseases. A puppy should get three to four meals a day because he’s growing fast but still has a small tummy, but don’t overdo it with portions size.

Adult dogs need to eat according to their size and energy requirements and should be fed two meals a day. This is frequently referred to by the premium dog food companies as a “maintenance diet“.

Unlike cats, dogs are not strictly meat eaters. In fact, a dog is more like an omnivore and will eat just about anything, whether it’s good for him or not! A certain amount of vegetable matter is part of a dog’s natural diet. Dogs love vegetables such as broccoli, carrots, zucchini, peas, and beans, and fruits such as bananas, apples, and melon. These make great low-calorie treats, too!

One thing you should never feed your dog is chocolate–it contains a chemical called theobromine which is toxic to dogs.

Senior dogs need a premium dog food that will help head off and manage the effects of aging. Since different breeds vary so much, it’s hard to give an age by which you should switch to a senior diet. The ASPCA recommends using weight as a guideline, and offers the following:

Small breeds or dogs weighing less than 20 pounds:7 years of age

Medium breeds or dogs weighing 21 to 50 pounds:7 years of age

Large breeds or dogs weighing 51 to 90 pounds:6 years of age

Giant breeds or dogs weighing 91 pounds or more:5 years of age

The ASPCA recommends that you begin dealing with the symptoms of old age before they’re obvious. Just like us, dogs will begin to accumulate more body fat as they age even as they consume fewer calories. (At least we’re not alone!). Muscle mass will tend to decrease, but this doesn’t mean you should lower your older dog’s protein intake. If anything, protein is more important than ever to help maintain muscle mass, so avoid senior dog food formulas with reduced protein.

One thing you will want to feed him less of is calories. Obesity is a real problem with adult dogs, and many owners don’t even realize their dog is overweight. Aside from portion size and calorie content, one way to avoid an overweight dog is to resist giving him table scraps. Most human food isn’t good for your dog.

===========How Much to Feed============

How’s your dog’s weight? You should be able to feel your dog’s backbone and ribs with light finger pressure, but not actually see them. If you have to “dig” to find them, your dog is overweight and if you can actually see her ribs, she’s underweight.

If you’re not sure how much to feed, you’ll love the interactive Dog Food Calculator on PetsMart’s home page! It’s the result of considerable research that has been published in scientific journals and accepted by industry experts. You can determine the right amount of food to feed your dog and find out how long that 40-lb bag will last!

===========Supplements============

If you’re all ready feeding a nutritionally complete premium dog food, do you still need supplements? This is another hotly debated topic. As a rule, it seems that most dogs do just fine without supplements. For certain dogs and certain conditions supplements can make a differenced. For example, a dog who isn’t thriving and there’s no other medical explanation for it might improve with supplements. Or, dogs with certain skin conditions have been known to improve on supplements. Since there’s a danger of doing more harm than good, you should definitely discuss supplements with your vet.

If you do decide to use one, pick one that’s made from natural sources and is designed as a multivitamin formulated specifically for dogs. That way she’ll get everything in the right amounts and ratios. Add it to the diet twice weekly so you won’t overwhelm or suppress your dog’s own internal regulating mechanisms.

=======Special Diets==========

There are many reasons why a dog might be put on a special diet. Some dogs are very sensitive to certain ingredients in commercial dog foods. Even if you’re feeding her the best of premium dog food, if your dog isn’t thriving, it’s possible her diet is a problem for her. Owners have resorted to alternative diets — holistic, raw foods, even kosher — to optimize their pet’s health. Some choose these diets simply because they believe they’re better, not because their dog is having any issues.

We’ll discuss special diets in a future article. For now, I hope you’ve gained some useful insights about the benefits of premium dog food over and above economy brands.

? 2004, Carolyn Schweitzer. Lifelong dog-lover, power-shopper, and family dentist Carolyn Schweitzer is owner and editor of DevotedToDogs.org where she offers information on a wide range of topics near and dear to a dog owner’s heart.

Visit the site to learn about human foods that are hazardous to your dogs health

You can reach Carolyn by email at carolyn@netbrainer.com.

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Where Can I Take My Dog? To The Beach?

Posted on October 4, 2010 by Alpha Male

It is hard to imagine many places a dog is happier than at a beach. Whether

running around on the sand, jumping in the water, digging a hole or just lying in the sun, every dog deserves a day at the beach. But all too often dog owners stopping at a sandy stretch of beach are met with signs designed to make hearts – human and canine alike – droop: NO DOGS ON BEACH. Below is a quick traveling tour of America’s beaches with each state ranked from the most dog-friendly (****) to the worst (*).

DOGS ON ATLANTIC OCEAN BEACHES (traveling North to South)

The rocky coast of Maine (***) is mesmerizing to look at but doesn’t leave much

room for sandy beaches. Dogs are generally banned from the beaches at the many

small state parks along the Maine coast, but dog owners will find more friendly

sands on the town beaches. Around Portland, the state’s biggest city, and the tourist

towns of the Southern Coast dogs are often allowed on the beach anytime Labor Day

to Memorial Day and in the mornings and evenings during the summer. The

spectacular Acadia National Park is one of America’s most dog-friendly national

parks but does not allow dogs on its beaches.

It is lucky for dog lovers that New Hampshire (*) has only 18 miles of coastline. State

beaches and parks don’t allow dogs on the sand at all. If you must stop in New

Hampshire, try the Grand Island Common in New Castle or Foss Beach in Rye during

the off-season from October to late May.

Around Boston, the beaches of the North Shore are off-limits to dogs during the

summer but other towns in Massachusetts (****) are more generous – dogs are

usually allowed year-round with restrictive hours in the summer. Cape Cod,

however, is the best destination for beach-loving dogs in New England. Cape Cod

National Seashore, America’s first national seashore, allows dogs on the beach

anytime outside the swimming areas (and not on the trails). The curviture of the

Cape limits sightlines down the beach and gives the park the impression of being

comprised of a series of dune-backed private coves. The two tourist islands off

southern Cape Cod, Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard, are both extremely dog-

friendly – on Nantucket, dogs can even take the shuttle to the beach.

The beaches of Rhode Island (**) are kept dog-free during the summer but if you

take the ferry to Block Island, dogs can enjoy the black sand beaches throughout the

year. In Newport, you can take your dog on the fabled Cliff Walk (poop bags are

provided at the trailhead) through the backyards of America’s rich and famous. The

hike begins at Bailey’s Beach, which welcomes dogs from Labor Day to Memorial

Day.

The sandy beaches of Connecticut (*) are not known for being dog-friendly. But

many aren’t that friendly to people either, with restricted access being common. If

your dog is hankering to try the benign waves of the Long Island Sound, stop in

Groton. Dogs are not allowed to experience America’s most famous beach at

Coney Island in Brooklyn.

The further east you go out on Long Island the more dog-friendly New York (**)

becomes but whether on the north shore or south shore you can find a place to get

your dog to the sea. Dog owners must pass on the prime destinations at Jones

Beach and Fire Island National Seashore until reaching the Hamptons, where the tails

of surf-loving dogs will start wagging. Many towns in the Hamptons offer dog-

friendly sand and at Montauk, on the very tip of Long Island, several beaches allow

dogs year-round, including Gin Beach on the Block Island Sound. The wide, white-

sand beaches of the Jersey shore are some of America’s most popular and there isn’t

much space for a dog to squeeze into in the summertime.

Most of the beaches in New Jersey (***), including the Sandy Hook Unit of the

Gateway National Recreation Area, open to dogs in the off-season. Summertime

visitors should take their dogs to Island Beach State Park, one of the last

undeveloped stretches at the Jersey Shore. Pets are allowed on the non-recreational

beaches in this ten-mile oasis. Dogs will never get to trot down the historic wooden

planks of the Atlantic City boardwalk, however – no dogs are permitted on the

beach or boardwalk of the Grande Dame of America’s seaside resorts. Dogs are also

not allowed anywhere in the Victorian village of Cape May but dog lovers can travel

south of town to Sunset Beach, a sand strip at the southernmost point of the Jersey

shore that is actually on the Delaware Bay. In the water offshore of “Dog Beach” are

the remains of the Atlantis, a unique concrete ship built to transport soldiers in

World War I.

Off-season, the sandy beaches in Delaware (****) are a paradise for dogs. Two state

parks, Cape Henlopen and Delaware Seashore, both welcome dogs between October

1 and May 1. During the summer season dogs can also share the beach with their

owners on select stretches of sand in Delaware state parks. In Cape Henlopen, the

80-foot high Great Dune is the highest sand pile on the Atlantic shore between

Cape Cod and Cape Hatteras. The concrete observation towers standing as silent

sentinels along Delaware beaches were built to bolster America’s coastal defenses

during World War II. Summer vacationers can take dogs on the Dewey Beach town

beach in the mornings and evenings. Along the Delaware Bay just north of Cape

Henlopen you can find several beaches that offer frisky wave action and wide swaths

of sandy beach – and best of all there are no restrictions against dogs on the bay

beaches.

The Assateague Island National Seashore is the prime destination for dog owners

heading for the beach in Maryland (***). The undeveloped dunesland permits dogs

year-round on the beach and in the campgrounds (but not on the short nature

trails). Keep your dog alert for the wild ponies that live on the island. Its neighbor to

the north, Assateague State Park, often celebrated as one of the best state parks in

America, is off-limits to dogs. If you are not roughing it on your trip to the Maryland

seashore, nearby Ocean City allows dogs on the beach and boardwalk between

October 1 and May 1. Traveling along the Chesapeake Bay, dogs are banned from

the thin beaches in Maryland state parks. Exceptions are the small beach in the

former amusement park at North Point State Park and the beach north of the

causeway at Point Lookout State Park.

There is plenty to like for beach-loving dogs in Virginia (***). Canine romps on the

clean, wide sands of Virginia Beach’s “Strip,” the commercial oceanfront from 1st

Street to 40th Street, can’t begin until the day after Labor Day but during the

summer dogs are allowed on residential beaches above 41st Street before 10 a.m

and afer 6 p.m. Dogs can jump in the ocean anytime at Cape Henry on Fort Story,

where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Chesapeake Bay. Fort Story is an active military

base, the only installation devoted to coastal operations, but its uncrowded, pristine

beaches are open to the public and dogs. Just to the west is First Landing State Park,

where canine swimming is allowed on unguarded sandy beaches. Check for seasonal

restrictions against dogs in these places. Just off-shore are views of the Chesapeake

Bay Bridge-Tunnel, one of the seven modern engineering marvels of the world. Each

span of the 17.6-mile crossing utilizes more than 2,500 concrete piles to support

the trestles.

Except for designated wildlife areas, dogs are permitted on the beach year-round

virtually everywhere on the Outer Banks in North Carolina (****). Cape Hatteras

Natonal Seashore has only four swimming beaches (in season) on its entire 70 miles

of protected coastline which leaves plenty of open sand for the dog to roam.

Seafaring dogs can reach Ocracoke Island and Cape Lookout National Seashore by

ferry or private boat for many miles of more undeveloped, dog-friendly beaches.

The northern part of the barrier islands has been rapidly developing in the past

decade but where you can still find access to the beach, unleashed dogs are sill

allowed year-round in towns like Duck and Corolla. Mainland North Carolina

beaches on Cape Fear are almost as dog-friendly; most swimming beaches restrict

dogs only during the day in the summer.

South Carolina (****) ranks among the most dog-friendly beach states on the

Atlantic seaboard. Get away from the people and commercial beaches and there is

plenty of unrestricted sand for dogs in the Palmetto state. Most of the smaller towns

allow dogs on the beach under voice control and only Myrtle Beach (from 21st

Avenue North to 13th Avenue South) bans dogs completely. One of the best places

to take dogs here is Hunting Island State Park. More than one million visitors

(human) come here each year, 85 miles south of Charleston, to enjoy three miles of

unspoiled beach.

Georgia (**) doesn’t sport much coastline and many of the beaches on Georgia’s

barrier islands and the Golden Isles are under control of resorts and most welcome

dogs except during the middle of the day in summer. Cumberland Island National

Seashore permits dogs but is accessible only by private boat. Savannah’s beach at

Tybee Island is closed to dogs.

Florida (*) ranks among the most dog-unfriendly of states. Entire counties and

regions ban dogs from the beach. There are so many prohibitions already against

dogs on Florida beaches that when they change, it is typically in favor of dog

owners. For the Atlantic beaches, the northeast part of the state around Jacksonville

(Amelia Island) offers some of the best beaches for dogs in the state but heading

south below Daytona, dogs are almost universally banned from the sand. Jupiter, on

the Treasure Coast, is one place you can find a break from the ubiquitous NO DOGS

ON BEACH signs. Fort Lauderdale has thrown dog owners a tiny bone – they have

set up a 100-yard long Dog Beach (at Sunrise and A1A) on Saturdays and Sundays

only from 3:00 to 6:00 p.m.

DOGS ON GULF OF MEXICO BEACHES (traveling East to West)

The Gulf Coast beaches in Florida (*) offer precious little for dog owners. Dogs were

once associated as closely with the Florida Keys as conch shells but today you have

to look hard for a beach to take your dog. Anne’s Beach in Lower Matecumbe and

Sombrero Beach in Marathon are two safe places. In Key West the “Dog Beach” is at

Waddell and Vernon avenues but there is really just enough sand to accomodate one

good beach blanket and the little amount of swimming available is treacherous over

coral outcroppings. On the Suncoast, seek out Bonita Beach Dog Park north of

Naples, the excellent Fort DeSoto Dog Beach and Park in St. Petersburg and the Dog

Beach on Honeymoon Island in the Dunedin area. Head for Franklin County, though,

where dogs are allowed on all the public beaches – and the only county in Florida to

allow dogs to run free. On the Florida Panhandle the Gulf Islands National Seashore

is the only national seashore that bans dogs completely. It is the same story in town

after town on the Gulf of Mexico across Florida. Near Panama City, dogs can reach

the water on Carrabelle Beach and Bruce Beach. At Saint Andrews State Beach, a past

winner of “The Best Beach In America,” dogs can hike the sandy nature trails and run

on the beach of the Grand Lagoon. It isn’t actually the Gulf of Mexico or the Best

Beach In America, but you can them from here.

For dog owners, Alabama (*) may as well not even have the few beaches it does on

the Gulf of Mexico.

In Mississippi (**) dog owners need to stay on the western coast in Hancock County;

dogs aren’t allowed around the populated Biloxi beaches.

People don’t seek out Louisiana (*) for its sandy beaches; most of the coastline is

made up of bayous. Grand Isle State Park is the only state park with access to the

Gulf of Mexico and dogs are allowed in non-swimming areas here.

In Texas (***), Padre Island is America’s longest barrier island and there is plenty of

room for dogs on its 113 miles of sand. At Padre Island National Seashore dogs are

allowed anywhere except on the deck at Malaquite Beach and in front of the Visitor

Center at the Swimming Beach. Galveston Island serves up another 32 miles of

mostly dog-friendly beach.

DOGS ON PACIFIC OCEAN BEACHES (traveling North to South)

Dogs on leash are allowed in all Washington (***) state parks, often on the beach,

but not in many swimming areas around Puget Sound. No dogs are allowed on

beaches in the city of Seattle. The uncrowded Pacific Coast beaches are some of the

dog-friendliest in America – even Olympic National Park, which bans dogs from

almost all of its 632,324 acres, opens some of its remote coastal beaches to dogs.

Dogs are allowed on almost all beaches on the Washington coast as long as they

remain out of the active swimming areas.

All of the beaches in Oregon (****) are public. You can step on every grain of

Oregon sand for 400 miles and, in the rare exception of a ban due to nesting birds,

your dog can be with you all the way. One beach dog owners won’t want to miss is

the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area with its 40 miles of sandy shore. These

are the biggest dunes in the United States – as tall as 500 feet and reaching two and

one-half miles inland at their widest point.

Northern California (****) would get plenty of votes from beach-loving dogs for

having the best beaches in America. Only a beach here and there restricts dogs from

its sand on the North Coast. Even in the highly populated areas, concessions are

made for dog owners. In Marin County a “Dog Beach” has been set aside on the

north end of Stinson Beach and many towns allow dogs on the beach under voice

control. San Francisco ranks among the dog-friendliest of beach cities. Take your

dog to the Golden Gate National Recreation Area and have your pick of several

designated dog-friendly beach areas. At Baker Beach, dogs are allowed to romp off-

leash. Further down the coast, dog owners will want to visit the Monterey Peninsula.

Dogs are welcome to run on the Carmel City Beach and can slip into the water near

Monterey and Pacific Grove as well. At Big Sur dogs can enjoy one of the prettiest

secluded beaches on the coast a Pfeiffer Beach. Skip Santa Cruz and there are plenty

of opportunites to get your dog on the sand in California’s Central Coast, especially

on unnamed beaches.

Heading south on the California coast the water warms up and beach restrictions on

dogs increase accordingly. There is still sand time for dogs in Oxnard and Ventura

but things are getting bleak as dog owners reach Santa Barbara. In Los Angeles

County the beaches are for people. In Southern California (**), San Diego is the place

for sand-loving dogs. Several popular beaches have set aside “dog beaches” that

attract hundreds of dogs. Every day is a beach day for dogs in San Diego.

DOGS ON GREAT LAKES BEACHES (traveling West to East)

Possessing the largest surface area of any freshwater lake in the world, there is

enough water in Lake Superior (**) to easily fill the other four Great Lakes to

overflowing. Lake Superior is known for its cold water and rugged shoreline but

there are some sandy beaches scattered across its 300 or so miles of southern

shores. Other beaches are more of the cobble variety. Most of the shoreline is

sparsely populated which bodes well for finding a dog-friendly beach. In Michigan,

the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore allows dogs on the beach from Twelvemile

Beach Campground to Au Sable Lighthouse and at Munising, dogs can dig in the

sand at Miners Beach. At Sand Point, dogs can play on the beach until the trail

begins to climb the cliffs. In Wisconsin, dogs are allowed on the beach in Ashland

and in Minnesota, dogs can swim in Lake Superior at Duluth’s Park Point Beach.

Dogs will have to admire the spectacular dunes and sandy beaches of the eastern

shore of Lake Michigan (**) mostly from the car as dogs are not allowed on Michigan

state beaches and most county and town beaches. In-season, the metropolises of

Indiana, Illinois and Wisconsin are even more restrictive. Chicago has recently gotten

its first official dog beach at Montrose Avenue. Belmont Beach is not an official

Chicago beach so dogs are allowed on this small patch of sand in a fenced area. In

nearby Evanston licensed and vaccinated dogs are allowed on Dog Beach but a

beach token is required for non-residents from May to October which costs $80 to

$100. Your best bets to dip into Lake Michigan, the only Great Lake totally within

the United States, are the national lakeshores and the state parks of Wisconsin’s

Door County. At the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore dogs are restricted to the

easternmost beaches at Mt. Baldy and Central Avenue until October when all

beaches open to our four-legged friends. In the Sleeping Bear Dunes National

Lakeshore, dogs can swim in the waves of Lake Michigan backed by some of

America’s larges dunes on all beaches except Platte Point Beach, the D.H. Day

Campground Beach and the Manitou Islands. Dogs also cannot make the Dune

Climb up hundreds of feet of sand.

Lake Huron (*) features 3,827 miles of shoreline, characterized by shallow water and

many sandy beaches. None of this will matter much to your dog, however, since the

Lake Huron beaches in Michigan are mostly closed to him. Alpena is a rare

exception. Dogs are allowed on the resort destination of Macinac Island, however.

Although its shores are the most densely populated of any of the Great Lakes, there

is plenty of opportunity for a dog to explore Lake Erie (***). The smallest of the five

lakes, Erie waters average only about 62 feet in depth and warm rapidly in the

summer for happy dog paddling. Ohio, especially around Cleveland, is the most

restrictive of the Lake Erie states. Try some of the smaller town beaches in Ohio and New York, most of which permit dogs outside of designated swimming areas. Some

of the best Lake Erie beachfront is in Presque Isle State Park, the most-visited state

park in Pennsylvania. Your dog can can hike the sandytrails past the swimming

beaches and enjoy the waves on the long, unsupervised sretches on the northern

end of the peninsula.

Not many people have settled most of the hundreds of miles of shoreline of the

south side of Lake Ontario (*) in New York. There aren’t many beaches and not many

bans on dogs – as long as they don’t try to swim with the humans.

Copyright 2006

I am the author of over 20 books, including 8 on hiking with your dog and the widely praised The Canine Hiker’s Bible. As publisher of Cruden Bay Books, we produce the innovative A Bark In The Park series of canine hiking books found at http://www.hikewithyourdog.com. During the warm months I lead canine hikes as tour leader for hikewithyourdog.com tours, leading packs of dogs and humans on hiking adventures. Tours, ranging from one-day trips to multi-day explorations, visit parks, historical sites and beaches. My lead dog is Katie, a German Shepherd- Border Collie mix, who has hiked in all of the Lower 48 states and is on a quest to swim in all the great waters of North America – [http://web.mac.com/crudbay/iWeb/Katies%20Blog/Katies%20Quest.html]. I am currently building a hikewithyourdog.com tours trailer to use on our expeditions and its progress can be viewed at [http://web.mac.com/crudbay/iWeb/Teardrop%20Trailer/Building%20A%20Tour%20Trailer.html].

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Dog Aggression: How to Recognize & Respond

Posted on October 3, 2010 by Alpha Male

Many dog owners are bewildered when they hear their dog growl, bark, or take an aggressive stance. Unfortunately, many of these animals end up in shelters because the owners could no longer live with the dog. Would you give up on your child that easily?

Of course not! When a baby is brought home to his new family, everyone understands that the baby is learning your language and teaching you his. We begin to understand our child?s cry or garbled sounds because we focus on trying to understand him.

Your dog has his own language as well. Understanding dog aggression and your dog?s language will help prevent undesirable behavior and dog bites. Let?s begin our understanding of dog aggression with the acronym DOG BITES:

Dominant

Opportunity

Game

Boy/Girl

Injury

Territorial

Escape

Dominant aggression is also known as competitive aggression. It is brought on when one dog feels challenged for his social position by another dog (or human). Dogs are pack animals. Social order helps feed and protect the pack.

The dog with the highest social order is called the ?alpha? dog. The alpha dog gets all the perks such as eating whatever he wants, sleeping wherever he wants, and dictating to the others in the pack. He decides when the others get to eat and sleep.

Even owners of a single dog may observe dominant aggression since the dog sees the owner as a member of his pack. An example of this type of aggression is demonstrated by the dog who lays on a favorite chair and growls at the owner when told to get down.

The aggression is a challenge for social position and dibs for the seating arrangement. How the owner reacts to the challenge determines whether the dog becomes more aggressive or submissive in the situation.

Here?s a less obvious challenge to an owner?s dominance in the pack?

You are sitting in the living room watching television. Your dog comes up to you and slides his head under your hand. You think your dog is adorable and wants your attention, so you pet him as requested.

Here is the punch line to this situation. Petting is similar to licking. Submissive, less dominant dogs in the pack lick the more dominant dogs. In other words, you were challenged and responded with an ok to be the submissive of the challenge.

Petting (or licking) behavior does not always signify submissiveness. There are other situations when dogs lick, but we will not pursue that topic here. What we will offer here is a suggestion on how to respond to the situation above.

Gently cup your hand over your dog?s muzzle. Rub behind his ears with a little pressure. These actions closely resemble social order biting. Dominant dogs bite the ears, nose, and neck areas of less dominant dogs to keep them in line. Just watch a mother dog with a litter of pups! You?ll see the behavior right away.

Opportunity aggression is aggression that is intended for another dog or person; however, it is redirected to a closer dog or person because the opportunity to attack is better. An example of this type of aggression is demonstrated when trying to break up two fighting dogs. Sometimes, the person breaking up the fight gets bit.

Caution is the best approach to take with opportunity or redirected aggression. If a dog is agitated, it is better to maintain a safe distance until the dog feels less vulnerable and relaxes.

Game aggression is predatory in nature. A dog will chase anything that moves away from it. The dog is a natural hunter of small game. When something runs from a dog, the dog?s chase, hunt, capture, and kill instinct takes over.

A human cannot out run a dog. If a dog attacks, the best course of action is to lie down and play dead. This action is a submissive move.

You have probably seen a dog lie down and bear his vulnerable belly to a more dominant dog. He is communicating to the more dominant dog that he is not a threat to the more dominant dog.

Boy/girl aggression is all about the hormones! This type of aggression is also known as sexual aggression. The male dog protects his female from other dogs and potential threats to his progeny.

Female dogs, however, also display this sexual aggression when they are pregnant, nursing, or in heat. Even the most docile female may growl or attempt to bite anyone who dares to pick up one of her pups too soon!

Sexual aggression is reduced through spaying and neutering. Most veterinarians recommend spaying or neutering your dog during the 6-12 months of age.

Injury aggression is aggression brought on by injury or pain. You might easily see this type of aggression in a dog that has been hit by a car or one who is suffering from age-induced arthritis.

Injury or pain aggression is best handled by seeking medical care for the dog. Try not to touch the painful areas unless absolutely necessary for therapy or to get your dog to safety. Diet, activity, medications, and bedding may help alleviate the pain and therefore, the aggressive behavior.

Territorial aggression is aggression displayed to protect the pack?s territory. The dog?s territory may be much different from your thoughts of the house and backyard. Indeed, if you take him on any walks, he may even consider the whole neighborhood his territory!

When a dog is in a new environment, he may be ?territorial? because he isn?t sure of his surroundings. This is why a dog that is boarded may be ?cage aggressive.? The dog is protecting the small territory of the cage from intruders.

When this is the case, let the dog have his space. He is stressed out and will feel protected in his own area.

Territorial aggression may also be used to protect the pack from perceived external threats. A protective dog is one that shows aggression toward other animals or people when he perceives a threat to his owner or other members of the pack.

A dog may also show territorial aggression with possessions. He will protect anything that he perceives as his. This includes food, bedding, toys, affection, and anything else that is part of his world.

Escape aggression is also called fear aggression. A dog that is afraid will often shake. The ears will probably be all the way back on the head and the tail will be low. He feels powerless and puts up a fight because he feels trapped like he has no where to escape.

This type of aggression may also be brought on by the fear of punishment. Imagine someone standing much taller than you with his hand raised above his head. Is he going to hit me?

n

Walking straight toward a dog, giving direct eye contact, or makig sudden movements can trigger fear aggression. Always move slowly around dogs that are afraid. Never give direct eye contact or move right towards a fearful dog.

About the Author: Julie Butts is a Kennel Manager and author of http://www.all-about-small-breed-dogs.com, an online guide for selecting, owning, and raising a small breed dog. Her website is dedicated to small breed dog lovers and includes information on breeds, training, behavior, grooming, supplies, books, gifts, and more.

Read more about dog behavior and dog aggression.

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Why Does Your Dog Completely Ignore You Around Dogs?

Posted on October 3, 2010 by Alpha Male

Have you ever wondered what “exactly” could be the reason why does your dog bark, pull on the leash, lunge, growl, attack, shiver, whimper, shy away or is dying to play when faced with other dogs that he is not familiar with?

Here are all the reasons:

o You don’t have the right timing, right technique, or the right training tool that can get your dog under your complete control. If a certain tool stops working or doesn’t even seem to faze your dog anymore, try another one. Use what works!

o You never thought socializing your dog with other dogs was really important or even possible. So you kept putting it off and now you finally admit that this has become a serious issue!

o You have been avoiding any dog you came across by changing routes on your walks, or by walking your dog really late at night or super early in the morning.

o Your training foundation is weak or even worse, you have no foundation. Meaning, your dog doesn’t even listen to you that well in private or in your home. So why would he all of sudden behave like a perfect angel around dogs that he doesn’t know or doesn’t feel comfortable with?

o Your dog USED to be friendly around dogs, but you slacked off on being involved on dog activities, daily walks, etc. And now, all of sudden your dog doesn’t know exactly how to behave around dogs he hasn’t met before.

o Your dog, or perhaps the other dog, isn’t spayed/neutered and they are dying to get it on and prove themselves. Jealousy also causes dogs to act aggressive toward one another.

o Your dog whimpers to trick you into thinking that all it wants to do is play, and when you get close to the other dog, all of sudden it charges for the kill. Very sneaky!

o You keep on patting your dog in an attempt to calm her down and by saying, “It’s OK. It’s okaaaaaaay. Nooooo…seeeee…. It’s a nice doggie.” But this doesn’t send the right message. In fact by doing so, you are “encouraging” your dog to keep on acting aggressively. This might work on some humans, but it never works on dogs. So do not pat or keep on massaging your dog while she is constantly lunging and growling at other dogs. This translates to: “Go ahead. Kill ‘em.” Even if you say “NO” in between, you are still not being crystal clear with your message.

o You misread your dog’s or other dogs’ body language. Sometimes when owners hold the leash tightly, this makes the dogs seem bigger, more tense, nervous, dominant and sometimes even a bit aggressive. Often you notice an owner’s dog is completely relaxed, yet the owner acts scared and desperately tries to pull the dog close to her. This makes the dog appear taller, more tense, with his head up and chest out, which reads a very confrontational gesture to other dogs. So please don’t wrap the leash around your hand three times by anticipating a dogfight.

o Your dog always lunges and attacks other dogs and doesn’t really know how to behave. Like a barbarian, it’s totally natural to him to act like a maniac. Basically your dog is thinking, “It doesn’t really matter if the other dog is small, big, black, white, friendly or aggressive. I always lose it when I see other dogs. It’s fun and it keeps me alive. I have that spice in me. Rrrrrruf!”

o You have a poor attitude and might even be prejudiced or scared of certain breeds. And guess what? Dogs never miss this and will try to protect you or at least try to scare the other dog. Maybe you hate certain breeds and your dog or the other dogs sense it from your energy, body language, or the fact that you totally changed direction, walked on the other side of the street, or picked up your small dog, hiding him from the rest of the world.

o Your dog never lost a dog fight in his entire life and always managed to scare, bully and lunge at dogs and actually get away with it. He probably sees himself as undefeated. The bigger the other dog, the more of a challenge; the bigger the fight, the better the pay per view.

o Your dog has been attacked by a dog in the past and got injured badly which resulted in him losing trust and confidence in you. You see, when you couldn’t protect your dog from another dog attacking it, your poor dog had to find a way to protect himself. So now it anticipates another dog attack. This is why now he acts tough to scare the other dogs away. Can you blame him?

o Certain dogs provoke your dog more than others. See if you can find any pattern. Is your dog getting aggressive more toward males, females, puppies, adults, small dogs, black dogs, white dogs, fluffy dogs with floppy ears, pointy eared dogs, or even dogs that are not neutered. How about their owners? See if you notice any pattern with them. Some dogs love a challenge and prefer to fight the biggest dogs they can find. Some can’t stand the small dogs’ bark, and the fact that they are more spoiled than bigger dogs, and probably see them as Costco’s appetizers.

o You’ve been letting your dog constantly mark on walks and thought it was normal and harmless. Now when your dog sees another dog in your neighborhood, he gets upset and tries to defend his territory. Just as your dog is overprotective of your house and your yard, he now thinks he owns the entire neighborhood just because he peed in every corner and every bush around it. How dare another dog walk in his hood!

o Something or even someone has irritated your dog, and now he decides to let it out on another dog. Be honest. Don’t YOU pick on someone or at your loved ones when you aren’t in a good mood? There you go. Your dog has learned it from you!

o Your dog is dying to play and interact with the other dog, but doesn’t really know HOW. So he gets mad at you, mad at the other dog, at the leash, at your training tool and at the world! This could be a dog that once he manages to get loose, will lick the other dog to death to show his affection. Most dogs when they want to play, just pull on the leash, whimper, wag their tail happily, or maybe bark and whine in excitement. Not your dog. And it’s really hard to know for sure exactly what he’ll do, when he finally manages to get to the other dog. Will he play or go for the kill? And who’s brave enough to find out?

o Your dog gets aggressive only when he is leashed. This might be another form of fear or frustration an attempt to keep the other dogs away. Or your dog notices that when he acts this way, you and the other dog owner walking another dog automatically pull back and don’t let them get close to each other. Your dog knows that he can’t do much while being leashed and his movements are limited. Therefore, it’s much safer to act like a maniac. Basically each bark and growl translates to: “Let me go. Let me go, Mommy. I can take him. Let me show you what I can do. Let me put him on the news for you.”

o Your dog is using your “other” dog as a shield/back up and knows it gives her more power when they attack as a pack. These dogs may walk politely one-on-one, but never as a team.

Conclusion: One of the biggest mistakes dog owners make is that they automatically assume that if their pooch loves some dogs, that it will remain dog-friendly with all breeds of dogs for the rest of his life. The truth is, some will, but most WON’T. You must be able to get your dog’s full attention around friendly dogs, aggressive dogs, hyper dogs, small dogs, big dogs, fluffy dogs, and male or female dogs.

It’s like a serial killer. They rarely go on a killing spree of their friends or relatives. It’s always the poor complete strangers.

About the Author:

Kevin Salem is considered to be one of the brightest minds in the world of dog training and one of the pioneers in his field. It’s hard to paint Kevin’s image with the same brush as others, as his unique way of thinking, writing, and training philosophy truly makes him distinct.

If you are a fan of Cesar Millan, it will be difficult not to fall in love with Kevin’s book. You’ll finally be able to put an end to your dog’s: Jumping Up, House-training, Play-biting, Barking, Leash Pulling, Destructiveness, Bolting Out, Over-protectiveness– to complete off-leash response. 10 week old pups to 10 yr old adults, all breeds welcome. Kevin offers Doggie Boot Camp or House Calls Nationwide. Try his book, hire him in person, or see him put his eyebrow raising skills into action by visiting his award-winning web site: http://www.DogSecrets.com

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8 Tips on How to Train a Dog

Posted on October 3, 2010 by Alpha Male

Having a dog as your companion can be a true joy. However, you don’t want your beloved buddy chewing your new shoes or going to the bathroom in the house. Therefore, you need to create a dog training plan to help your new puppy or dog understand the rules of the house.

What things should you focus on in dog training when you want your dog to understand the expected behaviors and even some fun tricks? Should you take dog training classes or complete dog training all on your own? The answer to these questions is that it depends. Take a look at the following dog training options to determine what type of dog training you want to provide for your canine best friend.

Possible dog training options include: a beginning obedience class that you can take through your local human society, dog supply stores such as PETCO, community recreation departments, and local colleges. These dog training classes can vary in price, time commitment, and personal attention. They are usually affordable and meet once a week at a community park. It is a great way to not only have your dog experience basic dog training, but socialize with other dogs as well.

If you have the financial resources and time you can hire a personal dog trainer. This type of trainer may be necessary if your pooch is having a hard time in basic classes and your dog training efforts aren’t making a difference. Before you invest in a private dog trainer it is important to make an accurate assessment of your dog training methods. Often times a dog that is not following directions is the result of the poor dog training by the dog’s owner.

A private dog trainer might be necessary if you are going to show your dog at dog shows. You can hire a dog trainer/handler or you can become one yourself. If you do, you must know the proper dog training techniques. You don’t want to have Fido jump up on the judges during the competition so he must be trained thoroughly and correctly.

You can also search through dog training books, guides, and various resources. There are products that will help you complete dog training such as special collars and muzzles. You can effectively go through a dog training regime with your canine if you follow these eight dog training tips.

Tip #1: Many people start their dog on the path to dog training success by enrolling them in a basic obedience class. This is a great idea because you will learn how to teach your do basic commands such as “sit”, “stay”, and “heel”.

You can teach these dog training commands by using verbal commands and physical actions. For example, right after you say the word “sit” you gently push your dog’s bottom down onto the ground and put them in the sit position. Immediately say “good” and smile. Give them a tasty treat as well. Basically, you want to do as much as you can to reinforce the action of sitting when you say “sit”.

Tip #2: Dogs act like absorbent sponges when it comes to learning proper behavior and tricks. If you do your job properly then dog training should be a hit. Your dog is ready and eager to learn proper behavior. They want to please you. Therefore, if they aren’t following your instruction it might not be their fault. You might be giving confusing dog training instructions.

Tip #3: Dogs thrive on positive reinforcement and encouragement. Positive reinforcement such as acting excited and petting your dog when they do the right behavior help with your dog training efforts. It is a dogâÂ(TM)s nature to want to be close to you and make you happy. Showing encouragement and praise will help your dog much farther, much faster in their dog training. Make sure to encourage a dog through each dog training accomplishment, no matter how big or small.

Tip #4: Food is a powerful motivator when it comes to dog training. You will be hard pressed to find a dog that passes up food or a tasty treat. Dogs are always hungry and welcome any situation where food is involved.

Tip #5: Dog training should be a gradual process with regards to skill level and learning more complex commands. Give your dog time to understand new commands. They most likely won’t learn it the first day you teach them. You will have to review the commands and proper behaviors often.

Tip #6: Have dog training sessions at various times throughout the day. Your dog needs periodic training to reinforce the proper behaviors. You dog’s attention span can wane, so make sure to keep the training sessions to five to ten minutes long.

Tip #7: When you first start dog training work in environment that is free from distractions so your dog can focus on their behavior. Once your dog understands the basic commands you can try to use the commands in a busier environment.

One thing you may find is that your dog is distracted and seems to have forgotten the commands. Don’t fret. This can happen because dogs tend to be situational learners and your dog just needs to work on the commands in the busier environment.

Tip #8: Too many treats equals an overweight dog. Dog training is a process that involves tasty treats, but too many of these treats can be a bad idea for your dog’s waistline. Use small treats and wean your dog off treats as they understand the different commands. They will then rely on your praise as the positive reinforcement for each behavior.

These eight dog training tips will set you on the road to happy, healthy, obedient pooch.

Visit the dog products website to research dog breeds & get free tips on dog training, dog health, dog grooming & how to find dog sitters & dog walkers.

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Private Dog Parks: Can Be The Safe Choice

Posted on October 3, 2010 by Alpha Male

With an increasing number of serious incidents being reported at dog parks, I want to introduce the safe alternative that a well-run private dog park can provide. You will find that a properly designed and managed private dog park is a dramatically different experience than what you have read about or have witnessed in public parks. A privately run dog park can properly screen, staff and enforce park regulations. We do caution you that even with the information you will gain from this article, please know that any dog park is not regulated, so we encourage everyone to do their homework before visiting any dog park to ensure it is right for you and your dog.

The current trend is that community and homeowner associations are responding to community demand by setting aside a small plot of their land for a public dog park. Unfortunately these unmanaged and unregulated fenced areas often turn to that of neighbor confrontation, injury and horror, even with the best of intending groups and dog owners. Let’s face it, without any oversight or enforcement, incidents are going to occur. Because I recognized the dangers in dog parks to the point that I would not take my dogs to one, I was motivated to devise the complex recipe for a safe off-leash dog park. Therefore; I conducted an in-depth investigation of many existing dog parks to establish the precise formula needed to create an off-leash haven.

I visited many, talked with visiting dog owners and observed many dog parks, both private and public. From my investigative travels and with my inherent understanding of dogs, I developed the complex operating matrix for a safe, off-leash dog park. Since that design work, we have successfully opened the first of our many private dog parks that thousands of qualifying dogs and their owners have already enjoyed. Our safety performance at the Royal Paws Dog Park & Doggie Day Camp facility speaks for itself with an impeccable safety performance and industry leading staffing ratio.

Benefits to your Dog with Off-Leash Exercise

The benefits to a dog at an off-leash dog park or any open area of land are immense. Unleashed running elevates heart rate, increases metabolism, improves gastrointestinal efficiency, and extends muscles and joints, all of which contributes to general overall fitness. It is known that maintaining such a healthy lifestyle for your loved dog will increase longevity and reduce risk of all associated conditions and diseases that obesity can cause. The experience for your dog in open field run is like no leashed exercise we can otherwise provide and the benefits will last a lifetime. When letting your dog run in an open field for exercise value, please consider that there are many risks to both you and your dog. You may be violating leash laws, the dog can track a scent or get lost, run into traffic or unwelcome neighborhood area, confront aggressive dogs or dangerous wildlife or foliage; which are all of the reasons as why I do not take my dogs to any open land without fences despite their excellent obedience.

In fenced area designated as a dog park, in addition to fitness improvement, your dog can enjoy benefits from the social interaction with the other dogs IF experienced without incident. The advantage for a dog that is well exercised and socialized benefit the dog, the owner and the community ONLY IF they have somehow avoided traumatic incident. Well exercised and socialized dogs are much less likely to contribute to neighborhood nuisances like chronic barking or showing aggression to other dogs.

If public parks could operate as well-run private dog park do, these benefits would be maintained. Unfortunately, many dog parks are not continuously regulated nor do they have the resources or knowledge to accurately screen the dogs; therefore, odds are that incidents will occur. Incidents like your dog being attacked by another dog or even being bullied by another dog can cause regression in social skills, cause behavioral issues, invoke fear aggression or cause physical injury or death. Following any incident at a public park, without a safe and regulated choice of private dog park that can best create positive experiences to overcome the impact of the incident, your dog may never physically or emotionally recover from the past trauma. The likelihood of good experiences for your dog in a well-managed private dog park is the reason that many loved dog owners everywhere chose private over non-regulated public parks.

Premise of a Safe Dog Park – It’s Private

The advantages a private dog park has over any public dog park is the ability to secure more favorable, larger parcels of land, improved grounds maintenance, set dog health requirements, enforceable park rules, screening of appropriate tempered dogs and third party intervention. Beware though and do your homework about any private dog park you intend to visit. Just because they can do all of the above does not mean that they do! While it is integral that the private dog park has the ability to control all of the above to make visits to a well-managed private dog park enjoyable, the most important to me are the health and temperament screening and ability of park staff to intervene.

If you have read the actual details in the recent headline grabbing horror stories of incidents in dog parks, they almost always are a result from a dog being in the park that should not be or from uneducated/erroneous decisions made by visiting dog owners. Both of these should not occur if your private dog park is consistent in managing and operating the facility for the safety and enjoyment of all. With private dog parks operating as a business, financial success is always a consideration. So turning away visiting dogs equates to lost revenue, so unless the park is focused exclusively on maintaining a safe environment for all, a private park that is short-term financially driven can pose the same risks that a public park does.

The third party oversight ability of park staff to intervene is required to eliminate personality clashes and biased evaluation of situations and/or dog’s behavior. So when the experienced screener determines the dog lacks the temperament so he/she can play with others, it is the park staff’s responsibility to deal with the disappointed dog owner. Same intervention by park staff goes in the event a visiting dog owner does not abide by park rules or a dog plays too rough or violations of any other park code of behavior. You can imagine these discussions are difficult; however, by park staff entertaining such discussions it eliminates any personal intervention by visiting dog owners.

Telling a dog owner that their dog is not allowed or can no longer come to the park until troublesome behavior is removed is always difficult. However, it is critical that the staff of the private dog park you are intending to visit has the proper screening system, the diligence to comply and financial ability to effectively turn away the revenue for dogs that do not appear to be capable of socially interacting at such level to keep the park safe for all.

As important to the screening is the park’s development and maintenance of expertly developed park rules. To the novice dog owner, many of the park rules appear to be too cumbersome and detailed. The reality is that each rule of a well-run dog park is well thought through and derived from merit by an expert in dog behavior. Compliance to all of the rules is key to the safe enjoyment of the park by all. For example, the toy aggression of a dog or rough play can within seconds turn into a dog fight even with the best of mannered & socialized dogs. Without such detailed rules and the full oversight to insure they are all followed, the private dog park could turn into mayhem.

Dog Park Management of Sizes and Breeds

For the safety of all, we highly recommend separating small dogs from large, excluding entrance to a few breeds, requiring males be neutered unless under strict command and requiring that dogs be at least four months old to enjoy the park. What we hear the most from small dog owners is that they want their small dogs to be able to play in the designated big dog area because “they like to play with big dogs”. Although the small dogs may have enjoyed past experiences playing with a large dog of neighbor or friend, the risk remain of physical injury to the small dogs if they are allowed in the same area as big dogs. It is my opinion each size should have designated areas to create safe play for all. Thus, we recommend that when investigating which dog park is right for you, this should be part of consistent operations.

Let me first say I do not believe in stereotyping any particular breed for temperament. However, due to instinctual drive levels, size and bite capacity, there are some breeds that I believe should be prohibited from entry to an off-leash park and some that should have elevated entrance criteria. Pit bulls, not specifically because of temperament but rather from jaw force/releasability should be forbidden from the off-leash dog park. Although we have met some of the sweetest and well-socialized pit bulls, we do not allow them to visit our parks because the risk is so high of severe injury to another dog if they were to bite.

Chow Chows are another breed that unless have a lifetime of scalability or coming in as a young dog, do we rarely let into the park. Any of the other “working breed” dogs, including terriers, due to their breed characteristics, prey drive, protection dog status and/or sheer size should go through elevated entrance criteria. These types of dogs must meet entrance-required temperament, in addition must demonstrate clear owner command. Upon meeting entrance criteria, they undergo frequent evaluations for continued social ability and owner command. All other dogs must pass dog socialization evaluation and demonstrate basic obedience.

Many Responsibilities of the Dog Owner

Even with the best of run private dog parks, the dog owners retain a high level of responsibility upon park entrance while be willing to withstand the occasional park staff directive. They must carefully watch their dog, abide by all park rules, maintain the obedience skills of the dog and know their dog well enough to predict their dog’s behavior. Knowing your dog’s mood, watching it’s posture and identifying or correcting any potential troublesome behaviors is critical so all can enjoy the park. Every dog will encounter occasions where they will meet another dog that they do not like or are uncomfortable around.

It is the best of private dog parks where entry requires command of your dog so that incidents of escalated aggression can be avoided when each dog owner carefully watches their dog and can command their dogs away from each and every situation. Incidents occur only when the dog owners are not vigilant in watching their dogs or do not understand their dog’s behavior and the slightest of uncomfortable encounters prolongs to escalate into a dogfight. Again, each dog owner should understand their dog’s postures, expressions and movement to be able to differentiate in off-leash situations when they are comfortable and when they are not. If the dog owner does not intuitively understand their dog, we recommend seeking the assistance of a professional dog trainer.

Safely Socializing Dogs Early Benefits Everyone

We believe that all dogs, when in receipt of proper health vaccination should be socialized in a safe environment to improve their ability throughout their life of all of the benefits an off-leash park can provide. Any puppy, following final adult vaccination booster should be introduced socially to other dogs, people, children and other distractions and a well-managed private dog park creates the perfect place. Puppies visiting a safe off-leash park will easily learn good behavior in the dog social structure and provide the dog owner the ability to enhance obedience training with distractions. Just as the benefits of teaching good manners to a dog early in their life are immense, so are the risks that behavior issues or dog aggression will occur in the event the early experiences are traumatic.

With puppies, we strongly encourage you thorough investigation on the park you are considering to take them to best create the opportunity for good experiences. We recommend you confirm that the park is well maintained, strictly managed and rules enforced. Taking the puppy to a private off-leash dog park will provide your dog a life-long of comfort around other dogs, people and children. However; even with the best of private dog parks, there are other distractions that you should have your puppy comfortable with, which is why we also recommend taking a puppy (when fully vaccinated) to busy shopping malls with diverse people and sounds, nature walks with children & bicycles and on-leash dog walking trails to learn on-leash manners.

Picking the Private Dog Park for You

While private dog parks are gaining in popularity because they may be the only choice for safe and enjoyable off-leash fun, enter with caution. If a dog park is “Private”, it is operated as a business entity, but this does not guarantee it is safe for you and your dog. It is our recommendation that with any place you intend to take your dog, you first tour the facility. Inspect the fence and the grounds, as well as talk with some of the dog owners visiting to learn about their safety record and staffing. After touring, talk with the park staff about what is required to visit. If you do not have to show paperwork confirming vaccinations or they do not meet your dog and determine social ability with other dogs, we would recommend that you know there may be risks. As with any place that you take your dog, insure you have great command of your dog and you are comfortable with the park layout and your dog’s social skills to lessen the chances of a possible incident with another dog.

Terri Malueg-Ray, President & Founder of many industry leading, innovative companies who is an international pet industry expert.

Terri L. Malueg-Ray is President and Founder of six-year-old company, Royal Paws Resort & Day Spa?, Ltd., one-year old company Royal Paws? Dog Park, LLC and founding partner of My Owner Has Gone To Heaven, LLC. Terri is known throughout the pet industry as a true innovator. She has created many premier products and services and most recently introduced her new line of gourmet pet meals, called Pet Tasties?. Terri?s background in engineering, chemistry and computer science provides her the ability to develop, design and execute the creation of Pet Tasties?, the only complete line of healthy, yet tasty brand of gourmet pet meals available in the market today. Following the design of Pet Tasties?, Terri utilized her leadership background to open the first pet restaurant in the Atlanta metro area and has made headlines nationwide. Most notably, on the reality hit TV show, Ambush Makeover, The Montel Williams Show, CNN, Jezebel Magazine, Atlanta Magazine.

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The Psychology of Successful Dog Bathing

Posted on October 3, 2010 by Alpha Male

“Can I wash my own dog? It can’t be that hard can it?” These are the words that I hear everyday as I go about my business working at the Pooch Parlor in Northern Idaho. Each time I walk a customer through this process, I find myself wondering why in the world something so simple is so doggone hard to explain. Washing your own dog may seem simple, but – only if you think and speak ‘dog’ – the language of your own dog.

I run a shop for full service and self-service dog grooming and bathing, and I LOVE it! There are dogs, and owners, of every size, every breed, and every temperament that come in to use the self-service doggie wash. Most owners are excited, some are scared, and some are cocky, but no matter who they are, or what they do for a living, there is nothing quite as intimidating for them as washing their own dog in public! The thought of doing this can give even the most confident person, performance anxiety, and for good reason! It is a true test of trust and tolerance and friendship for the person and dog companion. And, on a very basic level, it is an honest mirror for the owner, and how he or she deals with life, and with conflict. The likelihood of a successful experience for both is completely dependent upon the psychological relationship that exists between them, and, to a large extent, the ability of both to comprehend the body language of the other. You may be surprised to know that I have found that dogs are supremely better at reading their humans than their humans are of reading them. It is this relationship between human and canine, that shows itself without modesty during bathtime, and, keeps me coming to work day after day with a smile on my face.

My clients have been giving their dogs baths in my shops for 10+ years now, and, each year is more entertaining than the last when it comes to watching regular people washing their own regular dogs. The average person that comes through our doors is highly successful, which usually means – intelligent – and, because like attracts like, so is their dog. And, so why oh why, they ask me, should this simple task of cleaning their dog be so difficult? I ask them time and again, “Well, how well do you speak dog?” Invariably, their reply is a blank stare. So, this is the time to ask yourself, “How well do YOU speak dog?”

There is a lot to say about the theories of why dogs and humans behave the way they do, but I’m going to get back to the practical things to look for while bathing your own dog. The bottom line to remember is that your dog’s energy and personality traits are a mirror to your own. Take this into consideration when attempting to get him into the tub and have him be happy about it.

1. Deciding when to bathe your dog. Timing and Personality traits: Timing is important. Look at your own needs regarding timing to know how your dog will react. Are you the kind of person that is up for anything anytime? Or do you need to accomplish your day in a scheduled, systematic way? How do you do with new experiences? Do you find them refreshing and fun, or do you feel fearful until comfortable with a new activity? Your dog is going to deal with the bathtime experience in the same way you deal with life experiences. Remember that your dog is going to reflect your own personality traits – not necessarily the traits you show the world, but the traits that are truly inside you.

a. Fun-loving, extroverted, and social humans. If you enjoy regular physical activity, then so will your dog. For this type of person and dog, I suggest you take your dog out for a bout of exercise before the bath. In the city where I work, we are fortunate to have a designated beach on the lake just for dogs and their humans – dogbeach. There is a long path to run or walk on, and there is a large beach area to swim and play in. This is the perfect scenario for pre-bath timing. The dog can choose to get muddy, run, socialize, or just enjoy being outside. In any case, the dog is able to spend big reserves of energy outside in a fun way, just like letting human children play before naptime. If you love exercise, do something like this with your dog before taking him into your own tub or a professional facility for a dog bath. A common fault of the social dog and owner: Just because you are friendly, out-going person does not mean everyone wants to accept your friendly, and out-going gestures. It’s hard to fathom, I know, but it is true. If you have a very social dog (if you are a social person), it is easy to forget that many dogs (like their owners) are not social and do not appreciate the social requirements (like butt-sniffing) of others. Please remember to respect their space when in public or otherwise. Keep your dog restrained and under control, even if your dog has the friendliest intentions.

b. Non-social, active, or inactive humans. If your personality is not conducive to social interaction, then I still suggest that you walk your dog or do something that is comfortable within your life that involves light exercise before bathing your dog. Taking a walk with your dog does wonders to alleviate excess tension or stress for both human and dog. By getting rid of stressful energies during a walk, it does not present itself during bathtime. Getting exercise is especially important for those humans,( I mean dogs), that are highly nervous. I recommend giving your dog Valerian root (liquid form) or Rescue Remedy (liquid or spray) orally 30 minutes before the bath. Both of these products are natural remedies to calming down jittery nerves- and it works great for humans too. If timing is important in your life, take your dog to a self-service bathing facility when the least amount of people are there, usually early or late in the day. A common fault of the non-social dog and owner: they communicate poorly within their own species and with other species. Many people that tend towards isolation, often do this because they never figured out how to communicate effectively in human society. Their dogs typically have the same problem. I have seen it happen many times that owners of aggressive dogs unwittingly encourage their dog’s unwanted behavior, when they think they are doing the opposite. They do this by projecting their worrying thoughts about the ‘what-ifs’ of a social situation. Dogs of this type of owner act out their dog interpretations of their human owners signals. The dogs often pick up the ‘what-if’ fears of the human as the request of their human, actually creating the ‘what-if’ behavior to occur. Without human intervention and boundary setting by the owner (requiring advanced communication skills), it is quite common for this type of dog to exhibit increasingly aggressive behavior. Most owners are dismayed by their dog’s aggressive behavior, but they simply lack the skills required to communicate what behavior they will and won’t allow from their dog. I recommend that if you have a dog that is displaying increasingly aggressive behaviors to consult a professional dog behaviorist or trainer. Just a few simple tricks will convey an accurate message to a dog that is most likely misunderstanding your expectations.

Language barriers for humans and dogs. Its no surprise that miscommunication between owner and dog happens often. If you are a human that is finding you don’t understand why your dog does what he does, remember, you are learning a whole different language and culture. Give yourself time and give your dog time to understand each other. Just don’t expect your dog to act like a human, especially during conflict. It takes time and practice for anyone to learn a new human language. It’s no different learning dog language. We all know how to interpret a human smile in society. When a dog pulls his lips back over his teeth, it typically doesn’t mean he’s happy! Would a human dream of greeting a new acquaintance by sniffing their butt? Right! But, in doggie language, that’s the equivalent of shaking hands. A dog that shakes his head to get the slobber off of his mouth is no different than a person smoothing his slacks or dusting off his shirt to look more polite. The differences are huge, so give yourself and your dog a break if you have hit a communication block wall.

2. Deciding where to bathe your dog: There are not a lot of choices when it comes to bathing your dog. A. You can use your own bathtub at home which requires no human socializing – hard on your back, it’s very messy with extended after cleaning, and potentially traumatizing to human and dog. B. Bring your dog to a self-service doggie wash shop – easier on your back, requires some basic social skills by owner and dog, can be noisy and hairy, requires no after cleaning, and it does cost more than just the shampoo. C. Tie the dog to a fence and wash him with a hose in the yard (hopefully on a hot, sunny day) – not easy on the back, hard on the dog with cold water, potentially traumatizing for nervous dogs, but does not require human or dog socialiaing. D. Wash the dog in your nearest lake -which is very popular in my neck of the woods – hard on the back, requires advanced human and dog social skills, is potentially harmful to the environment, and how clean can you really get a dog in lakewater?

Regardless of where you wash your dog, take into account your own physical limitations, and your dog’s physical limitations. Is it worth wrecking your bathroom and hurting your back to wash your dog at home? For the clients I see, the answer is a definite, no! Emotional requirements are often a factor for dogs. For instance, (in general) Labrador retrievers have no issue being bathed in a lake (even though they don’t get clean), but they often resent being restrained in a tub with a sprayer hose pointed in their direction. For a farm dog that has never been away from home, tying them to the fence is a better solution than trucking them to the city and asking them to have manners in a grooming shop, or in a populated lake. At least next to the fence, even with cold water, they are comfortable with where they are and what is expected of them.

My vote is, of course to find a self-service doggie wash facility. The equipment is professional and easy to use, the water is warm (most of the time) and typically the dogs get treats when they walk out the door, which makes them happy campers. So, for those that want to know about washing your dog at a laundradog facility, here you go:

2. Getting your dog in the tub and getting him to stay there! At this grooming shop, the average dog that comes in for self-service is around 100lbs. All the dogs are washed at waist level where they stand on a grate in the tub. Getting them in the tub can be a trick. It’s kind of like asking a human to put ice skates on, and stand on the ice and not worry about how to do it. The easiest way for dog and human is to not give the dog time to decide whether or not he wants to. (Not the easiest task for shy or overprotective owners). The owner is given a large choker chain or cloth noose which goes around the dogs neck.

Leading: We have the owner quickly lead/pull the dog up the stairs with another person on the other end of the dog to give a quick boost on the butt end. The dog is on the grate, and in the tub before he has decided to be worried about it. Once the dog is in the tub, the owner hooks them in (not something you can do in your tub at home) to a variety of metal hooks inside the tub.

Choking: The dogs that are new to having a bath will sometimes turn in the tub and pull on the choker chain. We prefer the choker chain to a regular noose because the dog quickly learns with a choker that he is in control of whether or not he feels the choking sensation. The second the dog realizes he controls his own choking, AND realizes his owner is going to allow him to learn this (this is very difficult for the overprotective and/or mother types of owners-most all of us!), the pulling behavior stops. With a regular cloth noose, or one that does not self-regulate, the dogs will pull and pull and often never learn that they have the control over their own pulling more than any other behavior during the bath. Owners feel like they are directly causing their dog injury and should rescue them immediately when they hear them coughing and sometimes gagging. It is natural to feel concern over your dog choking, but it helps to think of the dog’s pulling and coughing similar to putting a toddler into his crib for a midday nap.

Many human toddlers HATE taking a nap and will cry hard enough to cough and gag. If parents rescue them from their cribs when this happens, they are reinforcing this coughing behavior for their child. Parents that monitor the crying, and coughing from a safe distance where the toddler cannot see them, soon find that their babies submit quietly to naptime without expecting to be rescued each time he utters a sound. Naps and baths may not be pleasant to begin with, but they are both essential habits of life. Dogs have the same learning behaviors regarding rescue. Owners that react with excessive concern over the pulling (as the dog is expecting), or crying and screaming tantrums, find they are only encouraging more pulling and tantrums from their dog. This point is so crucial that it is worth repeating. The more upset and worried the owner gets over the dogs behavior, the more they get of that dog behavior. If the owner is calm and without fear – and projects this to their dog, it is not long before the dog understands that pulling on the chain is only hurting himself, and that tantrums are a waste of their energy. When the owner believes everything is fine despite pulling and tantrums, the dog does too, and he stops the undesirable behavior accepts that today is bath day!

So many nurturing owners find this part difficult, but try to remember, when you expect your dog to learn how to control his own anxiety, he will learn, but it requires that you LET him learn. The best ways to learn to control ones own anxiety is to actually go through the experience of having the anxiety and dealing with it. If you are the type of owner that cannot allow your dog to experience this emotion without taking over and stopping the experience, your dog will learn to go into an anxious state more and more easily because of the reaction that he can expect from his owner. This becomes upsetting for both dog and owner and as you can see becomes an escalating cycle. If you allow your dog to go through this experience of the bath, anxiety and all, you will see that they will calm down and before you know it, you have a dog that allows you to bathe him! And having clean dog is essential to most dog owners. When your dog does calm down, i.e. quits pulling on the noose and allows the bath experience, that is the right time to express heightened emotion of happiness through praise and treats. If you take this time to praise your dog, it won’t be long before your dog asks to be washed with a happy, wanting-to-please attidude.

However, as with any rule, there are a few exceptions: old, very young, asthmatic, and dogs with neck or throat problems should be closely watched if they exhibit excessive pulling on the choker chain.

Ignore or not to Ignore: Most of the time, I recommend to owners to simply and quietly ignore their dogs protesting to get the behavior to stop (and it does), with the only exception being a small puppy (like a yorkie) or an old and fragile dog. Both the young and the old dogs that are not used to baths can injure their tracheas or create a medical problem (like asthma) if their nervous behaviors are allowed to escalate. It is in this circumstance that I tell the owners to use a harness to hook the dogs in the tub or in the case of a small and wild puppy, to use a sink or bucket in which they can immerse the dog in warm, soapy water. Puppies are wired to swim and that’s what they do if they find their bodies in water. Swimming is easier to work with than a freaking out jumping bean. If you do choose to ignore your dog’s protesting to the bath, REMEMBER to give lots of praise when the dog show’s signs of acceptance and/or begins to calm down.

Drying Your Dog: Drying a dog depends on the type of hair, type of temperament and grooming experience the dog has. If you have a shorthaired dog, towel drying is generally adequate. In the grooming shop, we use high-power dryers that blow the water out of thick or double-coated dogs like shepards, collies, and huskies – and in this case – standard poodles.

Put cotton in the dog’s ears before you begin as the dryer is loud. Make sure there is a minimum of play in the noose or chain that connects the dog to the tub, as the more room the dog has to throw a tantrum, the more room he’ll use. Start the dryer on the back end of the dog and aim the dryer side to side moving towards the head until the water is not dripping off the dog any longer. Most private owners go home with their dogs still dripping because of the tantrum factor. This is where the above information comes into play. The majority of dogs are nervous at first, but they quickly learn that the air is only loud, not painful. If the owner stays calm, the dog will quickly find this state during the drying process.

There are a few more minor steps that do occur in the grooming shop, such as brushing, nail trimming, anal expression, ear plucking and cleaning, teeth brushing and scaling and more. You can check out more ‘how to’ information on these specific techniques at www.thepoochparlor.net. Regardless of who you are or what you do for a living, the chances of your dog having a pleasant experience during the bath is highly dependent upon the ability of the dog’s owner to understand his or her own needs regarding life and society. Consider all the factors, energy reserves of your dog – spend them before the space wherever you go will increase your odds for success. Consider how much you actually do know about dog language. Above all else, remember that you, the owner, are in charge, and that if your dog is temporarily distressed with a new situation, you have to stay calm long enough to allow your dog to understand and accept the experience. It’s a curious notion that a human would have to delve into the basics of his or her own psychological needs to give their dog a great bath experience, but if you do that, you and your canine friend will have many years of happy and successful bathing experiences.

Author DuAnn Lustig-Chambers has been grooming since 1997 and owns Pooch Parlor Pet Groomer Training Academy in Sandpoint, Idaho.

Author: DuAnn Lustig-Chambers
Owner/Instructor/Dog Behaviorist Pooch Parlor Groomer Training Academy
210 Triangle Dr. Ste. D
Ponderay, ID 83852

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How to Begin a Dog Training Career

Posted on October 3, 2010 by Alpha Male

Do you love dogs? Do you find yourself automatically trying to train each dog you come across? Would you like a fun, satisfying career that revolves around working with dogs? Then starting a dog training career could be the best career option for you. As a dog trainer you will be able to work one-on-one with loveable dogs and help them to learn the proper behaviors.

Having a successful dog training career is dependent upon the time and effort you place into the venture. The odds of having a productive dog training career are low if you decide to just read a book or two on the subject and set up shop. This type of surface level preparation for your dog training career may leave you ill equipped to deal with the business aspects and typical obstacles.

If you do garner any clients they may not be satisfied with your services and your reputation goes down the tubes. Remember if you embark on a dog training career that you need to establish a good, respectable reputation from the beginning. This is especially true if you wish to expand your dog training career from the average household to dog shows. The competitive dog world can be a small, close knit group that watches the performance of dog trainers closely.

As you can see, starting a dog training career is a serious choice that needs to be investigated thoroughly before you begin. Let’s say that you have decided you will put in the time and effort necessary for a successful dog training career because you love dogs, want to work with them everyday, and out committed to being a knowledgeable, skillful dog trainer. The next big question is how to do you start your dog training career?

A dog training career can begin in a number of ways. You can take home correspondence courses that range in complexity and time commitment. You can contact local breeders and dog trainers in your area and become a mentor or take lessons from them directly. You can also begin a dog training career by finding any dog training companies or stores such as PETCO to get you started.

The method you should use to begin your dog training career depends on the type of dog trainer you wish to be and your time commitment level. Can you work only part time and want to lead basic dog training classes at your recreation center? Do you want your dog training career to become a full time job where you train dogs for dog competitions such as Westminster? You need to determine your interest level to begin.

Maybe you are not sure yet how much time you want to spend on your dog training career. If this is the case, hop on over to places such as PETCO and inquire about their programs to become a dog trainer. They can answer your individual questions and help you to decide if a dog training career is right for you. You can also consult many book, e-books, magazines, and websites on the subject. You will often find that others have the very same questions and concerns.

You can also speak with dog trainers and dog groomers in your area that have experience in this field. They can help you determine the level of commitment you want to bring to your dog training career. They can point out the pros and cons of a dog training career that might not be highlighted in dog training career books.

What do you typically learn during your dog training career? There are a whole slew of items you need to understand including: establishing effective communication with your dog and basic to advanced tricks and commands. You will learn the best way to teach your dog these tricks. You also need to understand the mind of your dog and learn about dog temperament and the unique needs of each dog.

As with any career you will need to understand the background and history of not only your dog, but every dog as well. You will definitely come across more than one dog breed to train during your dog training career so it is imperative that you comprehend the intricacies of each breed. For example, you need to be aware of the historical strengths of each breed such as the Bichon Frise breed can jump extremely high and used to be circus dogs.

In addition to dog history and the dynamics of each dog breed, it is vital that you have a good grip on proper dog nutrition. During your dog training career you want to produce dogs that are healthy, happy, and well behaved. Understanding their nutrition and exercise needs will help you to accomplish this. Dog hygiene and grooming are areas of study as well so you can present a pooch that has a shiny coat and sparkling teeth.

While working with dogs comprises the majority of your dog training career, you will also need to focus on the business aspect. Your dog training career will become a business. Therefore, it is a necessity to understand how to operate your business regarding fees, overhead, and other financial and time considerations.

Having a thriving, rewarding dog training career might be just what you need in your life. If you love dogs and want to work with them on a daily basis then consider starting a dog training career.

Visit the dog resource website to research dog breeds & get free tips on dog training, dog books, dog products & how to find dog sitters & dog walkers.

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Barking Dog Problems, Anyone?

Posted on October 2, 2010 by Alpha Male

I see barking for dogs as talking for humans, so why would you want to stop barking dogs. They and we all need to express ourselves. Whether your dog is the most posh Poodle or the poorest Pavement special that nobody wanted, they all bark. As far as I know there is only one breed that does not bark and that’s the Basenji. Dogs bark for any number of reasons and believe you me we will not understand all of them. A dog’s logic is quite different to ours. Before your dog drives you barking mad, let’s try and understand the reasons for your barking dog problems and what can possibly be done to stop barking dogs.

Barking Dog Problems-Stop barking dogs

As I said who knows what goes in the furry brains of our dogs. Basically we can attempt to understand barking dog problems by observing our dogs to determine the reasons which have triggered the barking. There is a huge list of barking triggers or reasons, some of which I have indicated below. I have also included some fixes or ideas to resolve the various types of barking dog problems as well. I suppose there are many people that will go to great lengths to stop barking dogs, so I have outlined some advice and provided some great links to assist with all barking dog problems.

Nervous barking dog problems:

Why does the dog do it? This is a major problem for many dog owners, how to stop barking dogs? Problem is, too many owners never get to see the real deal, because as the name implies, you’ve left the building and your dog is nervous. So this is what happens while you are out. As the dog becomes more anxious you will often find that the pitch of the barking becomes higher as well. Sometimes the dog will even start howling. Understandably, you neighbor is going to get mental and you will end up having a bad relationship with your neighbor and possibly face fines as well. If your dog is very attached to you and follows you like his tail follows him, then your departure will most probably lead to this type of behavior. You’ve separated yourself from the dog so the dog becomes anxious.

How to stop barking dogs! Dog’s are smart, if you have a set routine when leaving, they will pick this up and start getting anxious the moment you pick up keys, or put on your shoes etc. You need to get to a point where your dog does not suspect you are leaving soon. Also, you need to train your dog to be ok with you being gone for different periods of time. So disrupt your routine when leaving, don’t follow the same sequence whenever you leave your house. Also try leaving for a few minutes and come back again, so that the dog becomes comfortable with you not being around and has not started getting nervous or anxious yet. Don’t give your dog to much attention or affection prior to leaving. The main point is that you need to break routine and keep your dog oblivious of your comings and goings. Effectively, what you dog does not know will not hurt him, or in this case, make the dog anxious. If you really cannot bear to see your dogs being anxious or afraid, there are options such as doggy day care or pet companions or sitters. There are already too many abandoned dogs at the pound due the inability of owners to get barking dog problems under control.

Territorial Barking dog problems:

Why does the dog do it? These type of barking dog problems occur when the dog feels his territory is under threat. Yes, can you believe it dogs are territorial, who knew. If your dog can see strangers or other dogs through the perimeter fence on your property, guess what, he is going to think they are invaders and will bark to indicate that this is his territory. Often this barking is accompanied with growling sounds as well. The dog is just trying to let any likely intruder know that he means business. To some degree these barking dog problems are desirable, wouldn’t you agree. It’s another issue though when you’re out walking the dog and he won’t let up with this territorial barking.

How to stop barking dogs! Well as mentioned earlier, a little territorial barking may well be a good thing. Sometimes it is not such a good idea to stop barking dogs altogether. However, if you’d like to regain your position as the Alpha Dog, then you need to assert your authority on the dog. When you dog commences territorial barking, try and distract him by spraying water in his mouth or face and issue a short forceful command such as STOP NOW or similar. If he goes quiet then be sure to praise him to let him know that he is doing the right thing. As with all training of dogs, repetition is the key so as always, you’ll need to persevere and be patient.

Attention Seeking Barking dog problems:

Why does the dog do it? Well I think this is pretty much, self explanatory. The dog wants attention and will bark until he gets it. This barking also occurs when the dog is bored. If human contact is very limited or the dog has nothing to keep him occupied, especially younger dogs, then expect to see this type of attention seeking barking. Usually it’s quite an irritating yap yap sound which can drag on and on. To stop barking dogs here, is certainly a highly desired goal.

How to stop barking dogs! For starters, you should try spending more time with your dog; it’s generally good for the soul. Also try to ensure that your dog isn’t locked in an area all day which is devoid of any dog entertainment. By this, I mean, make provision for some chew toys or similar with which the dog can entertain himself when he is alone. If you cannot be there for your dog all the time, consider getting him a sidekick or playmate. Who knows, there are so many unwanted dogs out there that need good homes. All they want is love and attention, a small price to pay for their loyalty and commitment and will certainly go a long way to stop barking dogs.

Fearful Barking dog problems:

Why does the dog do it? I’m sure we have all seen this type of barking in our dogs at one time or another. If ever you have let of fireworks or there has been a loud thunderstorm, you may have seen your dog displaying fearful barking. This type of barking is very sharp and short and you can see in the dog’s posture that he is afraid. Usually the dogs tail will be down low or even between his hind legs and his ears will be flattened on his head. These are sure indicators that your dog is afraid. Kind of difficult to blame dogs for these type of barking dog problems.

How to stop barking dogs! Well for starters, don’t let fireworks off anywhere near your dog. Another idea is too train your dog to become familiar with loud sharp sounds such as thunder, loud noises etc. This can be achieved by playing back recordings of similar sounds to your dog, firstly at a low volume and gradually increasing the volume, until your dog becomes familiar with these sounds. It won’t hurt to comfort the dog when they are fearful like this and that may well help to calm or even stop barking dogs. I’m sure we could all do with some re-assurance when we’re afraid.

Barking dog problems -why stop barking dogs?

There are many more descriptions for a huge variety of dog barking, such as Frustration Barking, Greeting Barking, Compulsive Barking too name but a few. Generally you need to try and observe what brought on the barking and also observer your dog’s posture when the barking is occurring. It stands to reason that if you have the trigger “cause” then you can most probably use a bit of common sense to stop barking dogs. There are also many products available to purchase which may resolve your barking dogs problems. Some of these products like the shock collar don’t sit well with me, but each, to his, own. Imagine being shocked every time your voice went above a certain decibel rating.

Ultimately dogs were born with a voice and it’s known as barking. Fair enough, some types of barking we would want to control or limit. As with people, some are just more barkative than others. Certainly if your dog’s barking is going to land you in court with frustrated neighbors or at the mercy of the local authorities, then something will need to be done to stop the barking dog. In most cases the barking dog problems can be resolved by you educating yourself to train your dog. At the end of the day the, why stop barking dogs? Sometimes you may want your dog to bark especially if he is alerting you to something. Good luck and feel free to check out the links on the right to see some really comprehensive guides relating to this rather contentious issue.

Hi, my names Derek and I am a Dog Lover and Enthusiast. I am not an expert and do not have any degree or fancy diploma. I do not know everything but I know quite a lot of things. I’ve had over a lifetime of experience with dogs and I am learning new things about them each day. I hope that this does not come to an end. Life would be pretty boring if there was nothing new to discover. Why don’t you join me in this quest for knowledge about “man’s best friend” at my website http://www.besthappydog.com/ where I share my insights as well as many experts advice, you know, the one’s with the degree’s and diploma’s.

I would also recommend subscribing to my newsletter and receiving this free book http://www.besthappydog.com/how-to-be-the-alpha-dog/, for some really great training advice and tips.

Hope to see you soon, thanks for reading my article.

Cheers for now.

Regards

Derek
LIVE…
LOVE…
LIFE….

to the MAX!

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